We've lived in the Bay Area for nearly 3 years now. On pretty much every single holiday since moving here, we've traveled back to Idaho or Wyoming to be with family. This time was different. For Thanksgiving, we decided to stay home and enjoy a relaxing weekend with our own little family.
The day after Thanksgiving we got up early and headed to Scott's Creek Beach. Neither of us had ever been there before so we were excited to see somewhere new. (And I may or may not have heard about some good surfing near Scott's Creek.)
The beach was super fun for Theo because of the little creekbed that flowed through sand. He spent hours building little dams and diverting the water into different channels. There was also an awesome little sandy ledge that he, to the surprise of us, bravely jumped off over and over again. He would also slide down on his bum, creating an avalanche of sand behind him.
I am pretty much a 12-year-old boy stuck in a man's body because I had so much fun jumping off and rolling around in the sand too. I think I get that childishness from my mom. She's in her fifties and is still the exact same way. It's a bit of a deep-rooted desire to escape to Neverland and be a kid forever.
After we had played in a sand and the day was getting long, I convinced Sara into letting me get away to go catch a few waves. The point break waves were looking awesome and I was continually distracted by the distant surfers riding their peeling left-breaking waves all the way to shore.
Once I paddled out I was surprised with how challenging this wave was to read. Was constantly shifting as it came toward you making it difficult to be in the right takeoff point. I finally caught a solid wave, after paddling for dozens. The last wave I caught I ended up riding for quite a while. It was a really fast a springy wave that felt like a slingshot as you dropped in. I raced down the face of it quickly but I could see that I wasn't quite going to make it fully to the end of the line because a section in front of me was beginning to close out. I made a last-minute attempt to ride up and glide across the lip of the wave but when I did so I obviously underestimated the power of the lip. It smacked my board super hard and sent me and the board straight back to the bottom of the wave. My face collided with the board as I went spinning underwater, becoming completely disoriented. When I came back up and began to paddle I saw that my nose was dripping some blood. Surf session over.
I walked back to Sara and Theo feeling completely satisfied. Surfing is magical. When I arrived back I quickly realized that Sara wasn't in my same mood. Apparently, Theo and some other little boy were playing together but it ended badly. Theo got mad and dumped a bucket of swampy water on his head. Sara was super embarrassed and definitely ready to go home. Theo was obviously pretty tired.
We ended the day by driving TWO HOURS in horrible traffic all the way back home. The Bay Area definitely has its pros and its cons. Such a great day.